Unilock has the most comprehensive instructions available anywhere in North
America. Take your time and read the instructions carefully and if you need more
information we have installation guides available for pick up at our showroom.
Pictures and information courtesy of Unilocktm
Download the
Unilock Installlation Tech Guide, Everything you need! |
| Planning and Design
Planning starts with a clear idea of what
you want to accomplish. A detailed, measurement inclusive sketch of the
overall area is necessary to determine product quantities and project
budget. This can range from a simple, drawn sketch or one completed by a
landscape professional. With this sketch we are able to determine the
quantity of materials required for your project. |
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| Base Preparation
Begin by marking out the area to be
excavated. Excavating removes loose top soil or fill and allows for the
placement of a compacted granular base. Small areas are easy to excavate
by hand, but for larger areas you may wish to hire an excavating
contractor. |
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| BEFORE YOU DIG!
You need to call local utility companies (eg:
phone, gas and electric) to ensure the area in which you plan to dig is
clear of underground cables or pipes. Technicians will come and mark these
areas, usually at no charge. We have seen television cable buried
less than 8". |
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| Excavate to the proper depth.
Always excavate the area to be paved
slightly wider to give you some breathing room. For a backyard patio or
walkway, remove only the loose topsoil and sod. For a driveway a
much thicker base is required. An attractive alternative to excavating for
a patio is creating a raised patio using a retaining wall edge. This
eliminates having to get rid of the removed soil if you can afford the
extra height. |
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| Follow the contour
Try not to disturb the packed topsoil where
possible. This will help in the compaction of the new granular fill and
will help reduce the amount of settling afterwards. Use a flat ended
shovel to keep the base flat and smooth. |
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| Prepare the Base Material
Fill the area with the correct amount of
granular material. Grade your base material as closely as possible to the
final contour of the patio surface. Remember to slope all installations
away from the house for drainage purposes. At least 1/4" per foot
slope. Different grades of granular screenings are used depending on the
depth of material required. (see Bedding
Chart)
Save time and money, use High
Performance Paver Bedding for your base.
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| Compacting the granular base
The base preparation is the most important
part of the entire process. Appropriate base material, thickness, and
compaction are essential to ensure your installation will last a lifetime.
Use a plate compactor and firmly compact the gravel base material. For
best results compact no more than 3" of granular at one time. Most
compactors like the one shown here are not capable of compacting more than
3" at a time. A hand tamper can be used in tight areas or when
building steps. |
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| Screeding
Pavers are laid on a bed of coarse sand or
fine screenings. This bed should be 1" to 1-1/2" thick, no more,
and is placed directly on the compacted granular base. |
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| Using a screed guide (1 to
1-1/2" galvanized pipe) placed on the granular base, level the sand
or screenings. The pipe can be obtained at most major plumbing or hardware
stores. |
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| Level and slope
Level the sand or screenings evenly
by pulling a straight board along the guides. You can check the final
level of the pavers by placing a paver on a guide. Remember to maintain
drainage slope (1/4" per foot). Once you have completed an area
remove the pipe guides, fill in the grooves, and continue screeding. |
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| Laying
Begin by placing the pavers directly on the
screeded bed, leaving a small space, approximately 1/8" (3mm) between
each paver. Start laying along the longest straight side of the area to
keep lines straight. This will minimize the amount of cutting required. |
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| Soldier Coursing
It is important that the lines of your
pavers are square, 90 degrees to each other, to fit properly. If you are
installing circles, fans or a soldier course (a border of pavers around
the perimeter of the the area) you will want to place these first before
installing the rest of the pattern. Pattern designs are available for most
paving brick. |
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| Cutting
You may need to cut pavers that don't fit
along edges or around objects. Mark the pavers and cut with a Guillotine
cutter or masonry saw. A guillotine cutter is the easiest method of
cutting but for an exact cut a masonry saw works best. |
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| If you are renting a masonry saw
to cut edge pieces it might be advisable to mark all the stones and cut
them all at one time after the bulk of the stones have been put into
place. This will save rental $$$ |
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| Both Guillotines and Masonry
Saws are available at local Rental Equipment centers. |
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| Edge Restraints
Edge restraints are a critical element to
the durability of a paver installation. They prevent the pavers from
moving and shifting over time. Especially in the early spring when the
ground is soggy. Various edge restraints are available and can be used in
both straight, inside and outside curves. |
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| Compacting the Pavers
After the installation is complete,
including edge restraints, the pavers must be swept clean and then
compacted with a plate compactor. This helps settle the pavers into the
bedding course and creates a smooth flat finish. The compactor will not
harm the paving stone. |
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| Jointing Sand
Sweeping specially graded jointing sand
into the joints of the pavers further locks the pavers together. The use
of a Polymeric Jointing sand can help prevent the sand from running out of
the joints as well as reduce or eliminate any future weed growth. It is
important to keep the joints filled to the top. (End)
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