Heatalator - Heat Units.
Heat Form Size Chart Below. 30" and
34" openings are Standard. All
others special order.
 |
Step 1 Finish
the foundation with a layer of firebrick upon which to set the Heat-form
Unit. The firebrick should extend beyond the Heat-form at the sides and
back and be at least flush with the front of the Heat-form. If the
fireplace is to have an ash pit, the ash dump should be put in at the time
the firebrick base is laid. Do not lay firebrick up into the metal firebox
of the Heat-form. (See Figure 1)
|
 |
Step 2
Position the Heat-form on the firebrick hearth. Unpack
glass wool insulation and apply around the bottom of the unit. Cover the
unit with a single thickness of insulation, taking particular care at
corners. A thin watery mixture of mortar brushed on the steel Heat-form
will help to hold the insulation in place. At this point if particular
care is given to the glass wool insulation, location of the cold air
intake grille, and gauging of the masonry work, the rest of the
installation will be made much easier. (See Figure 2)
|
 |
Step 3 Lay
the first course of masonry dry around the unit to check dimensions,
thickness of mortar joints and grille locations. Take care to prevent the
masonry from touching the unit at any point. The finished width of the
fireplace opening should be 1" to 2" less than the width of the
Heat-form opening. Lay the masonry beyond the Heat-form on each side of
the Heat-form opening, making a concealed joint between the Heat-form and
the masonry. Due to heat expansion, mortar will not stay in this concealed
unit. (See figure 3)
|
 |
Step 4
Plan the location of the cold air intake grilles. Air must
not pass direct from the cold air inlet to the hot air outlet. The air
must be circulated through the unit. Air passages should be finished
smoothly to speed air flow and prevent heat loss. Sometimes it is
desirable to locate grilles beyond the chimney masonry; if such is the
case, use metal duct for the inlet and insulated metal duct for the warm
air outlet. If electric fans are to be used with the Heat-form, and
the power line to the fan is concealed, it may be desirable to locate the
conduit and junction box in the masonry. Fans must be installed in the
lower intake openings only! |
 |
Step 5
With this start, proceed with the masonry in the regular
way. Keep in mind:
- Glass wool insulation around the Heat-form Unit.
- The concealed joint at fireplace opening.
- The cold air intake and warm air outlets must be
planned for and located in the masonry and must be separated by
masonry or ducts.
- All weight of the chimney must be supported by
masonry and not on the Heat-form Unit.
- When the top of the fireplace opening is reached, use
a metal lintel of adequate strength to support the masonry work above.
Set the lintel low enough to conceal the metal apron of the Heat-form
Unit. Pack loosely generous quantities of insulation behind and at the
end of the lintel. (See Figure 5)
|
 |
Step 6
Plan the location of the warm air outlet grille in the same
manner as cold air intake. If the warm air outlets are extended any
distance beyond the masonry the duct work should be insulated. Air inlets
and outlets should be located in solid masonry only and should vent to the
front of the fireplace. If the hot air outlets are on the sides of the
fireplace you must be sure that there is at least 8" from the grills
to combustible material such as panel or drywall.(See
Figure 6)
|
 |
Step 7
When the face of the fireplace has been built up to desired
height, start corbelling the masonry back to meet the dome of the smoke
chamber and the flue lining. Be sure the smoke chamber is covered with
insulation. See that a tight connection is made to the flue lining and that
plenty of insulation is packed loosely around the place where the flue
lining meets the smoke chamber. Do not allow the flue lining to rest on
the Heat-form; the lining must be supported by the chimney masonry. (See
Figure 7).
|
 |
Step 8
Finish the chimney in the normal way. NOTE: Before
leaving the job, try the damper to make sure it opens wide and closes
tight. It may be necessary to clean out fallen mortar. Leave the valve
plate wide open to circulate air up the chimney. This helps to cure the
masonry. Do not build a fire in the fireplace for at least 7 days, allowing
time for the masonry to cure thoroughly. (See Figure 8)
|
 |
Metal Rain Cap
A complete line of rain caps designed to prevent animals,
birds and leaves from entering your chimney flue.
- will also help to prevent down-draughts
- trap large flying sparks
- deflect rain from flue opening
- easy to install, with locking tabs to hold it secure
to your chimney
Stock sizes to fit outside flue dimensions of 8" x
8", 8" x 12", 12" x 12".
Custom size caps for 12" x 16" and 16" x 16" are
available on request.
|
  General
Information.
Particular attention should be given to the application of the glass wool
insulation. The Heat form unit must not be used as a support for the
masonry. The masonry at all points must be self supporting. Keep masonry
1/2" to 1" away from the steel at all points to allow for normal
heat expansion.
Foundation.
Foundation dimensions will vary with the size of the Heat-Form used - type
of masonry (brick or stone) - number and size of any other flues in the
same chimney - and width of fireplace on each side of the fireplace
opening. Therefore, due to the wide variety of applications it is
difficult to provide details that cover all installation dimensions for
the foundation. |
